This honeycomb is a simple cable pattern that’s great for someone just starting out with cable knitting. You can change this pattern with other rib stitches. Make sure the gauge is tighter than or equal to the cable pattern. For another variation, add additional knit rows to the honeycomb pattern to increase the size of the cable cells.
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Yarn: 3 oz (85 g) 185 yards, weight consumed. The example was done with Naturally Caron Country Yarn (color: Vicuna).
Shop worsted yarn in this pattern on Etsy.
Round needle, US size 7 (4.5 mm), 16 inches long (for ribs)
Round needle, US size 9 (5.5 mm), 16 inches long (for hat body).
I highly recommend the Addi Turbo Knitting Needles. Because its smooth surface and flexible loops make knitting almost effortless. More about Addi Turbo Needles
Secure the cable stitch with a cable needle or double-pointed needle. I prefer to use double-pointed wood or plastic needles for cable stitching.
Honeycomb gauge using size 9 needles: 20st = 3 inches (7.5 cm)
Finished Measurements: Approximately 20″ (25cm) around the body of the hat. 8 inches (20 cm) from the cast-on edge to the crown.
Increases or decreases in multiples of 8. The reduction must be adjusted for the total number of immersion.
- C4F – Front of 4 cables. Slide the two needles from the left needle into the cable needle or dp needle. Move the cable needle forward to work. Knit the next two stitches from the left needle. Then weave two needles from the cable needle.
- C4B – 4 back cables. Slide the two needles from the left needle into the cable needle or dp needle. Move the cable needle to the back of the job. Knit the next two stitches from the left needle. Then weave two needles from the cable needle.
- K2tog – Knit two needles together.
See the video below for a demonstration of cable stitching.
Sea Stitch Ribs:
Sew 137 stitches with a size 7 circular needle. It is recommended to put a stitch marker every 24 stitches to help trace the pattern.
Round 1: rep from *k3, p1, * to the end. (Hat first round only: Push the first stitch and follow the last stitch pattern. Slide the last stitch marker to slide the first stitch, taking care not to twist the rows. This will close the round and reduce one stitch. 136 st .Place.)
Round 2: p1, *k1, p3, repeat from * to the last 3 stitches, k1 p2.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until round 14.
Variant: I can substitute other rib stitches, but I found the cable pattern to be tighter than many rib patterns (including 1×1). So, if the gauge of the rib is tighter or not tighter than the cable, knit the rib with a small needle. Or reduce the number of stitches on the rib and put it in an increasing row. Do a sample!
Switch to size 9 circular needles.
Round 1: Represent from *C4F, C4B, * to the end.
Rounds 2, 3, 4: Knit.
Round 5: Repeat from *C4B, C4F, * to the end.
Rounds 6, 7, 8: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1-8 until the cap measures about 6 inches from the cast. It ends at row 5.
Tip: Place stitch markers on every reduction to ensure you do not miss where reductions are needed.
Switch to a double-pointed needle (or keep using a round needle as comfortable as possible, up to about 6 rounds in my case). Then switch.
Round 1: *K6, K2tog. (119th Street)
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *K5, K2tog. (102nd Street)
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *K4, K2tog. (85 days)
Round 6: Knit.
Round 7: *K3, K2tog. (68 days)
Round 8: Knit.
Round 9: *K2, K2tog. (51st)
Round 10: Knit.
Round 11: *K1, K2tog. (34 days)
Round 12: Knit.
Round 13: *K2tog. (17th)
Cut the thread leaving about 6″ tail. Using a tapestry needle, sew the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull the stitches tightly together. Thread the tail through the hole in the crown. Pull the tail to close the crown securely. Tail and weave all other ends with the stitch on the wrong side.
See this project by Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honeycomb-hat-3.